SEWING GLOSSARY

GLOSSARY

You're discovering and deciphering a sewing pattern for the first time... This glossary of the most common terms should help you get started. It includes the terms used in "lou and me" instructions and patterns and will be updated regularly.

Cut on the fold

When it says to cut on the fabric fold, it means that the pattern piece is presented as half its size on the pattern.
You must therefore fold the fabric and place the line marked as the center line on the fabric fold. You cut and obtain a single piece (symmetrical).

Grainline

The grainline appears as arrows on the pattern; it indicates how to place the pieces on the fabric. The grainline is parallel to the fabric selvedge (i.e., the finished edges of the fabric). You must therefore place the piece on the fabric, ensuring that the arrow is parallel to the selvedge.

Right side and wrong side of the fabric

The right side of the fabric is the outer side of the project, the visible side. The wrong side of the fabric is the inner side, generally duller than the right side. When sewing right sides together, the right sides of the pieces are placed face to face.

Clip curves

Make small notches (about every 5 mm) in the fabric allowance up to the seam line. Be careful to stop before and not cut the seam. This step allows for a beautiful curve on the inside of a curve.

Seam allowances

Also called seam allowances or seam values, this is the part between the stitching (seam) and the raw edge of the fabric. Seam allowances of 7 mm or 1 cm, depending on the pattern, are included in my patterns, so you can cut the fabric flush with the pieces.

Facing

This is the piece of fabric used to finish the neckline, armhole, or bottom of a garment. It is most often invisible: sewn then turned inside the garment for a nice finish. It can also be folded to the right side of the fabric, which allows for combining different fabrics, for example.

Cutting layout

It indicates how to place the pattern pieces on the fabric. The sides of the fabric are folded or not: if they are folded and the piece is placed along the fold, the piece is cut on the fabric fold.

If a piece is placed "in the middle" on the fabric folded in half, the piece is cut 2 times (by cutting the piece on the fabric folded in half, the pieces are symmetrical).

If a piece is placed on a single layer of fabric, it is cut only once.

Press seams open

Open a seam with an iron (the seam allowances are pressed to each side of the seam) and press at the stitching line with the tip of the iron along the entire seam. This step is important and allows for beautiful finishes.

Finish edges

Finish the edges of the pieces so they don't fray. You can finish edges with a zigzag stitch on a sewing machine or with a serger.

Topstitch

Make a visible stitch on the right side of the fabric. This stitching provides support and decorates the piece.