My tutorial ... the cupcake halter dress

I am continuing the series of tutorials, this time with the tutorial for the cupcake halter dress, the pattern for which is available in the shop here.

I finally increased the difficulty level to 2, because even though the straight version seems simple to me, I found that the gathered version and the sewing of the waistbands and the neck tie were difficulties for some of you. Ultimately, I don't know if this indicated level is useful or not, because everyone has their own strengths/weaknesses (buttonholes, gathers, sleeves...). I choose the level based on technical points, but also on the number of pieces to assemble, whether they are small pieces or not, etc. To be continued...

Before starting, I would like to emphasize a point that I specify on each pattern and which is very important: Do not choose the size based on age, but rather on the child's measurements. (The size guide is on page 3 of the pattern and here on the website).
For this model, choose the size closest to the chest measurement. You can then easily lengthen or shorten the dress according to the child's height.

Here I am sewing a teal double gauze with gold patterns (the beautiful color doesn't really show up in photos, which is a shame). Be careful if you are sewing this material: use a pressing cloth or iron on the wrong side, otherwise the gold patterns will melt.

This is not the ideal fabric for a tutorial because the fabric returns to its "wavy" shape as soon as I lay it down to take photos (the seams don't look very neat). And... I don't like sewing this fabric, I don't know why but it drives me crazy every time... however, the result is great and it's a very comfortable material to wear... so, it's worth it! 

Let's go for the first step...

STEP 1 - The front of the dress

Place the front bodices of the dress right sides together.

Sew them as indicated, i.e., the top and sides of the pieces.

Before turning right side out, for nice finishes, notch and clip the corners. (For more details on this, click on this link: trimming a seam tutorial). Press.

Press a fold to the inside at point R indicated on the pattern and secure it with a seam 2.8 cm from the edge, creating the casing through which the neck tie will be slipped.

Gather the bottom of the piece, taking both layers of fabric, until you reach the width between points A indicated on the pattern for the front waistband of the dress.

Place the gathered top on the front waistband of the dress, right sides together, and baste it (sew 3 mm from the edge).

Here's what you get:

If you chose the gathered version of the dress, gather the front bottom until it matches the width of the front waistband of the dress.

Place the front waistband of the dress on the front bottom, right sides together, and sew. Press the seam allowance upwards (towards the waistband).

STEP 2 - The back of the dress

Assemble the back bottoms of the dress right sides together from point B indicated on the pattern to the bottom of the dress.

Press the seam open.

Press the 7 mm fold on each side of the slit in line with the seam and topstitch 2 mm from the edge as shown in the photo.

If you have chosen the gathered version of the dress, gather each side of the back until you get the width between point M and point C indicated on the pattern of the back waistband of the dress.

Assemble each side of the back right sides together with the back waistbands of the dress (point M is placed on the side and point C is placed at the slit, in the middle of the back).
The tip of the waistbands is therefore oriented towards the middle of the dress, as shown in the following photo:

Here's what you get once the 2 sides of the back waistband are sewn:

Press the seams upwards, towards the waistbands.

STEP 3 - Assembling the dress

Place the front and back of the dress, made in the first two steps, right sides together, aligning the seams of the front and back waistbands.

Assemble the front to the back along the side seams, from the top of the waistband to the bottom of the dress.

Press the seams open.

STEP 4 - The waistband

Create the waistband lining by assembling the front waistband lining and the back waistband linings right sides together.

Press the seams open.

Place the waistband lining on the dress waistband, right sides together, along its entire length (on the front, the top of the dress is caught between the two layers of the waistband).

Sew all around from one point C to the other: start from one point C towards the end of the waistband, continue sewing the upper part of the waistband to the other end, then sew the bottom of the waistband from that end to the second point C.

Here is the seam to be made on the front of the dress:

And the back and waistband seam:

Clip, trim corners and turn right side out, then press carefully.

On the front as well as between points M and C, the waistbands are only assembled at the top. Therefore, press a 7 mm fold at the bottom of the waistband in line with the seam (on the front and between points M and C on each side of the back).

Close the bottom of the waistband with small invisible stitches sewn by hand.

Here's what you get, seen from the wrong side, front:

And here's what you get, seen from the wrong side, back:

 

STEP 5 - The neck tie

Place the neck ties one on top of the other, right sides together, and sew them, leaving an opening of about 10 cm to turn right side out.

Clip, trim corners and turn right side out.
Press and close the opening with small invisible stitches sewn by hand.

I advise you to topstitch 2 mm from the edge all around the tie.

Slide the tie into the casing made on the front top of the dress.

STEP 6 - Hem

All that's left is to sew the hem at the bottom of the dress:

Press a first 1 cm fold, then a second. Secure it 2 mm from the edge.

I hope these photos will help you understand the step-by-step process. I am available if needed for further explanations, feel free to contact me: contact@louandmecouture.fr

See you soon,

Lydie