My tutorial... the late summer dungaree dress

Today I'm offering you the tutorial for the Late Summer dungaree dress, thepattern of which is available in our shop here.

This pattern is one of your favorites, and I hope these illustrated explanations with photos will make it easier for you to create it.

I won't go over all the explanations here, as they are included with the pattern. However, I will note the step number so you can follow the illustrated instructions and photos simultaneously. Let's get started!

Step 1 - The front bodice

The bodices are assembled to their linings right sides together.

For neat finishes, trim the seams by notching the edges and clipping the corners. (I've created a tutorial explaining how to trim seams here)

After turning the bodices right side out and carefully pushing out the corners, topstitch 2 mm from the edge, then topstitch 2 cm from the center of each bodice as shown in the following photo. These topstitches are not mandatory, but I find they help to keep the seams and pieces in place, resulting in neater finishes. You can even topstitch with contrasting thread to highlight them.

Sew 4 buttons on the right bodice at the positions indicated on the pattern, and make 4 corresponding buttonholes on the left bodice.

It won't be necessary to unbutton the dress to put it on, so if you prefer, you can place the left bodice over the right bodice, overlapping them by 2 cm, and sew the buttons through both bodices... which means you don't have to sew buttonholes!

Here's what it looks like:

Step 2 - Straps and back bodice

Fold the straps in half, right sides together, at the line marked "center" on the pattern. Sew as shown in the photo.

Trim the seams, turn right side out, press, and you can topstitch all around 2 mm from the edge.

Baste the straps to the back bodice, placing the "center" line, i.e., the straight line, in the middle of the back bodice.

Place the back lining on the back bodice, right sides together. The straps are thus "sandwiched" between the two.

Assemble the back bodice and its lining. I recommend making several backstitches around the straps to reinforce the seam.

Trim the seams, turn right side out, press, and you can topstitch all around 2 mm from the edge. This is what you get:

Step 3 - Preparing the skirt

Place the pockets and their linings right sides together.

Assemble them along the top edges of the pieces:

Trim the seams, turn right side out, press, and you can topstitch 2 mm from the seam:

Place the skirt sides right sides together, two by two (two for the right side and two for the left side):

Assemble them right sides together, sewing straight up to point A. Do not follow the curve of the side, but create a straight line. I recommend drawing this straight line with a ruler and stopping at point A:

Press the seam open and topstitch only on the front side, as shown in the following photo. The back button placket is not topstitched.

Proceed in the same way for the second side of the skirt.

Place the pockets on the sides of the skirt, aligning the bottom edges of the pieces:

And baste the pockets on each side.

Then assemble the front center of the skirt with the front sides, right sides together. You will get this:

Then assemble the back center and back sides.

You can topstitch 2 mm from the edges of the front and back centers.

Step 4 - The front of the dress

Sew the front waistband to the bottom front of the dress, positioning them right sides together. The waistband extends beyond each side.

Press the seam allowances upwards.

Place the front bodice on top of the waistband, right sides together (the front bodices overlap by 2 cm) and baste.

Press a 1 cm fold at the bottom of the waistband lining:

Then position the lining on the waistband.

The top is "sandwiched" between the waistband and its lining.

Assemble the waistband and its lining at the top and on each side, flush with each side of the skirt.

You need to trim the seam: I advise not to cut the seam allowances too short on each side. Leave about 5 mm; it will be easier to tuck them in neatly afterwards.

Turn right side out and press, making sure to push out the corners.

Secure the bottom of the waistband lining with small, invisible slip stitches sewn by hand.

Step 5 - The back of the dress

You will proceed in the same way as the front for the back of the dress.

On the back side, the button plackets are not topstitched; they should be left as shown in the photo, facing outwards:

Sew the back waistband to the bottom back of the dress, positioning them right sides together. The waistband extends beyond each side.

Place the back bodice on the top of the waistband, right sides together, and baste.

Press a 1 cm fold at the bottom of the waistband lining.

Position the lining on the waistband. The top is "sandwiched" between the waistband and its lining.

Assemble the waistband and its lining at the top and on each side, flush with each side of the button plackets.

You need to trim the seam without cutting the allowances too short on each side.

Turn right side out and press, making sure to push out the corners.

Secure the bottom of the waistband lining with small, invisible slip stitches sewn by hand.

Here's what you get (I've included several photos so you can visualize it clearly).

closer up...

on the right side...

Step 6 - Finishing touches

Sew a buttonhole on each side of the front waistband:

and sew a button on each side of the back waistband:

Sew a buttonhole at each corner of the front bodice.

I then recommend trying the dress on the child to adjust the length of the straps and sew the button accordingly:

Finally, overlock the bottom of the dress together and sew the hem, adjusting the length to your preference.

That's the end of the tutorial. If you have any comments, please feel free to contact me by email (contact@louandmecouture.fr).

Lydie