My tutorial... the mellow culottes

 

We're back!

I wish you a beautiful and creative year 2020! I'm starting the year with the tutorial for the mellow culottes, for which the pattern is available in the shop here. I'm also preparing an article showcasing the different versions I've sewn.

I won't be repeating all the explanations that come with the pattern, but I will try to add some details and, most importantly, photos that I hope will help you start making the culottes more easily. I'll include large photos so you can clearly visualize the pieces and how they're assembled. Let's get started!

Step 1 - Sewing the Pockets

The front and back pocket bags are assembled right sides together like this:

For this version, I added piping to highlight the pocket opening:

You need to fold the back pocket bag...

...to be able to place the front pocket bag against the skirt and align the curved pocket openings (the right side of the front pocket bag is against the right side of the skirt):

After stitching, turn the pocket to the wrong side of the skirt:

And secure it. This is what it looks like on the wrong side:

Step 2 - The Skirt Front

Assemble the front pieces of the skirt right sides together at the crotch seam:

Sew the pleat from points A to B as indicated on the pattern.

Place the crotch seam on the pleat seam (at point A). Here's what it looks like on the wrong side:

If you need more explanations for this step, you can consult here: the tutorial for held inverted pleats.

Secure the pleat:

And gather (you can read this tutorial which will help you sew nice, even gathers):

Step 3 - The Skirt Back

You assemble the back pieces right sides together at the crotch seam:

And gather:

Step 4 - The Waistband

If necessary, apply fusible interfacing to the front and back waistbands (and also to their facings).

If your skirt is made of denim or a fairly thick gabardine, it may be unnecessary to interface the waistband as it will already have enough "body". In this case, however, I recommend applying a square of fusible interfacing only at the buttonholes to reinforce the fabric.

(well, I realize an article on interfacing would be a good idea... I'm adding it to my 2020 "to-do list"!)

Sew the buttonholes at the locations indicated on the pattern:

(if you prefer, you can omit these buttonholes meant for a belt. I'll explain below, at the end of step 5, how to proceed)

Assemble the waistband and the front (be careful to correctly assemble the front waistband with the front skirt!)

This is what it looks like. A quick iron and the front is ready:

Assemble the back waistband and the back of the skirt in the same way:

Assemble the waistband linings right sides together

Step 5: Skirt Assembly

Assemble the front and back of the skirt right sides together along the side seams:

.... and the inseam:

Assemble the entire circumference of the waistband and its lining right sides together:

And tuck the lining inside:

After pressing the seam and then pressing a 1 cm hem at the bottom of the lining, attach the lining to the waistband seam allowances with small slip stitches:

// If you don't want to sew buttonholes for a belt:

Leave an opening when you attach the bottom of the waistband and its lining:

You will thread the elastic through the opening instead of the buttonhole, go all the way around the waistband, and bring the elastic out through the opening.
Close the elastic by sewing the two ends together.

Close the opening with small slip stitches and move on to the end of the next step. //

You can topstitch all around the waistband 5 mm from its top and bottom edges. This topstitching is optional. You can do it now or after threading the elastic.

Step 6: Finishing Touches

Thread the elastic through one of the buttonholes to pass it through the waistband casing. Go all the way around the waistband and bring the elastic out through the same buttonhole.
Close the elastic by sewing the two ends together and then re-insert it into the waistband through the buttonhole:

Here's how I sew the ends of the elastic together:

You can then thread a belt through it:

Finish by sewing the hem. Since the fabric I chose was a bit thick (wide-wale corduroy), I didn't want to make a classic double-fold hem. So I chose to make only one fold and sew on a trim: (I'll add an article on different hems to my 2020 "to-do list"...)

And there you have it, your culottes are finished!

I strive to accompany my patterns with clear and complete explanations without being too long or indigestible. Some are adept at diagrams, others read the explanations and hardly look at the illustrations. Since the difficulties are different for each of you... I hope these photos will help you!

See you soon and happy new year again!

Lydie